Danny, I'd have to agree with Chris. Check with Craig at F9 and see what he has to say about using F9 on vinyl but I think you'd be ok. Check out this link to another post
-- Edited by Gregg Austensen on Tuesday 2nd of April 2013 09:59:19 PM
Danny Cronauer said
Apr 3, 2013
I did an estimate today, and I was prewarned by the HO that a pressurewasher years ago had cleand the home, but couldn't removed the black that was 2 feet below the gutter line. This "black" was around the entire house 2 feet below the gutterline, and eaves. So I did 2 test spots. One you can cleary see the difference this was 2 feet above the ground(green stuff), the other was 2 feet below the gutterline("black"). It appears to be vinyl siding. The home was built in 1981. The HO is waiting on me to come up with an answer. I sprayed with a 2-2.5% mix. I cleaned an aluminum siding home that had the same problem except it was brown not black, and it WOULDNT come clean. Everything else looked great.
Anyone have any suggestions? Have you seen this before?
Looks like aluminum oxidation from the aluminum soffit. I've used aluminum brightening acid before to remove these stains. Another option is to use F13, purple power or whatever you use for gutter whitening. These products will remove oxidation from vinyl siding. They won't necessarily remove the aluminum stains completely but if the vinyl siding is oxidixed, alot of times the aluminum oxidation can be scrubbed off with the vinyl oxidation.
Danny Cronauer said
Apr 3, 2013
The F13, purple power was my next bet, but how do you charge for something like that? I will have to manually scrub the entire top 2ft of the siding. Its not like a house wash wear I can spray and let it dwell. Thanks for the input guys, Its too cold for the gutter grenade to work anyway, but maybe Ill give the purple power a shot when it warms up. Danny
Steve Salley said
Apr 3, 2013
We had this same problem on a yellow sided two story house right on main street last fall, and to remove it we had to manually scrub after softwashing with Awesome.
It required a degreaser and in some areas we used two to three applications, as it had a level of "oil" in it. I think part of the problem is the old house probably has greater drafting pull at the eaves and the automotive traffic did contribute to added carbon pollution to the mold and dirt that accumulated. It did come off and looked much brighter, but I surmise it will collect there again sooner than the rest of the home's surfaces.
I have F13 to try this year if the snow ever leaves PA...
Doug Ford said
Apr 5, 2013
Add up what you think is the total square ft that you think you are going to have to scrub and charge a $1 per sq ft. And that is if it is 1st level $2 second level. Also look at what you think the time will be and charge about $125-$150 an hour. Don't be afraid to walk away from a job. If the money isn't right go find one that is. But it sounds like if you can find what will remove his problem then you are the only one in town that knows how to solve this guys problem and that is worth something.
Best wishes,
Doug
Danny Cronauer said
Apr 6, 2013
Doug Ford wrote:
Add up what you think is the total square ft that you think you are going to have to scrub and charge a $1 per sq ft. And that is if it is 1st level $2 second level. Also look at what you think the time will be and charge about $125-$150 an hour. Don't be afraid to walk away from a job. If the money isn't right go find one that is. But it sounds like if you can find what will remove his problem then you are the only one in town that knows how to solve this guys problem and that is worth something.
Best wishes,
Doug
Thanks Doug,
I was looking alone the lines of can I mix some F-13 up in a 10 gal drum and Spray the whole house? I'm gonna go back today and do some more test work.
Peter Blau said
Apr 6, 2013
Danny Cronauer wrote:
The F13, purple power was my next bet, but how do you charge for something like that? I will have to manually scrub the entire top 2ft of the siding. Its not like a house wash wear I can spray and let it dwell. Thanks for the input guys, Its too cold for the gutter grenade to work anyway, but maybe Ill give the purple power a shot when it warms up. Danny
Danny.
You should charge whatever the job is worth to you to do it. IMHO you shouldn't be overly concerned what the customer thinks about price. Obviously no 2 customers are the same. I've had many a times when I would give 2 prospects similar prices. 1 would say go ahead without any questions asked the other well let me put it this way - I didn't get the job.
Regarding your situation, I have used Purple Power applied with a brush. Fantastic in getting the oxidation, dirt and mold off vinyl siding and gutters. It is for me a little labor intensive but doesn't take long either. And I reuse the same Purple Power again and again (several times in fact). It doesn't seem to lose much strength. And it's pretty cheap.
If it's aluminum siding, I have no advice for that. Usually I tell people to get it cleaned and prepped to have it painted. If the aluminum siding is in bad shape it won't matter what you use on it. The finish is usually compromised and would have to get repainted anyway. I hope this helps you somewhat.
-- Edited by Peter Blau on Saturday 6th of April 2013 08:35:26 PM
Danny Cronauer said
Apr 15, 2013
Used the gutter grenade in a test spot, and it came out perfectly. Now I have to figure out, how to spray the entire house. Danny
Zach Maynard said
Apr 16, 2013
Either a pump up sprayer or do you have a spare pump to use? Glad you found your answer.
Aluminum will sometimes end up pitted and corroded in those corners. Moisture sits there and rots the metal with minerals. Old tin siding will actually rust away all together. Manage expectations on aluminum sided homes with the knowledge your gaining here.
Danny Cronauer said
Apr 22, 2013
I passed on the job, I'm too busy to be messing around with something that has mediocre results. I have been getting several aluminum siding calls, I feel that they all just need to be repainted.
Bill Booz said
Apr 22, 2013
That's not a bad idea. We don't do town homes anymore unless its a whole row or sometimes an end unit, or small decks or decks not attached to a package unless they are over $1,000. No painting on decks under $1000 either, no jobs under $500 more than 45 minutes away and No townhouse decks at all. We give all that work away and we never regretted it. Not doing metal siding might be next for us.
AC Lockyer said
Apr 22, 2013
Danny Cronauer wrote:
I passed on the job, I'm too busy to be messing around with something that has mediocre results. I have been getting several aluminum siding calls, I feel that they all just need to be repainted.
Wize decision young Padawan!
lol
AC
Bill Booz said
Apr 23, 2013
lol, your right Ac, your forum is fun. Hopefully I can make the time to keep answering questions here.
Danny, I'd have to agree with Chris. Check with Craig at F9 and see what he has to say about using F9 on vinyl but I think you'd be ok. Check out this link to another post
. Gregg
http://softwashsystems.activeboard.com/t53182356/great-f9-barc-rust-remover-testimonial/
-- Edited by Gregg Austensen on Tuesday 2nd of April 2013 09:59:19 PM
I did an estimate today, and I was prewarned by the HO that a pressurewasher years ago had cleand the home, but couldn't removed the black that was 2 feet below the gutter line. This "black" was around the entire house 2 feet below the gutterline, and eaves. So I did 2 test spots. One you can cleary see the difference this was 2 feet above the ground(green stuff), the other was 2 feet below the gutterline("black"). It appears to be vinyl siding. The home was built in 1981. The HO is waiting on me to come up with an answer. I sprayed with a 2-2.5% mix. I cleaned an aluminum siding home that had the same problem except it was brown not black, and it WOULDNT come clean. Everything else looked great.
Anyone have any suggestions? Have you seen this before?
Danny
It required a degreaser and in some areas we used two to three applications, as it had a level of "oil" in it. I think part of the problem is the old house probably has greater drafting pull at the eaves and the automotive traffic did contribute to added carbon pollution to the mold and dirt that accumulated. It did come off and looked much brighter, but I surmise it will collect there again sooner than the rest of the home's surfaces.
I have F13 to try this year if the snow ever leaves PA...
Best wishes,
Doug
Thanks Doug,
I was looking alone the lines of can I mix some F-13 up in a 10 gal drum and Spray the whole house? I'm gonna go back today and do some more test work.
Danny.
You should charge whatever the job is worth to you to do it. IMHO you shouldn't be overly concerned what the customer thinks about price. Obviously no 2 customers are the same. I've had many a times when I would give 2 prospects similar prices. 1 would say go ahead without any questions asked the other well let me put it this way - I didn't get the job.
Regarding your situation, I have used Purple Power applied with a brush. Fantastic in getting the oxidation, dirt and mold off vinyl siding and gutters. It is for me a little labor intensive but doesn't take long either. And I reuse the same Purple Power again and again (several times in fact). It doesn't seem to lose much strength. And it's pretty cheap.
If it's aluminum siding, I have no advice for that. Usually I tell people to get it cleaned and prepped to have it painted. If the aluminum siding is in bad shape it won't matter what you use on it. The finish is usually compromised and would have to get repainted anyway. I hope this helps you somewhat.
-- Edited by Peter Blau on Saturday 6th of April 2013 08:35:26 PM
Danny
Glad you found your answer.
AC
Wize decision young Padawan!
lol
AC